The 7079 $70 pup first though her when harmonious cost we need to have exit strategy for stopping it's use. The quicker the lure is faded the better. Lures are faded by adding the command for the behavior. The process starts when we feel the dog has reached fluency with the gesture for the lure. At that point we give a command, offer the lure gesture then and -reward the behavior. The command must come immediately before the lure. We do this 10 50 times We then test the process by giving the command and not offer the lure gesture. If the dog performs the behavior it has learned the command. If the dog hesitates and does not offer the behavior we simply say Nope reposition the dog to the point he was before the command was given and repeat the command-gesture again until we think he is ready for another test. What trainers should not do when the command fails is to add the lure after they have found out that the dog is not going to follow the lure. This is the natural instinct for new trainers but it is the exact wrong thing to do. This only trains the dog to wait for a gesture. if the dog doesn't perform the behavior, you repeat the command and add the gesture that the dog knows and then -reward the behavior. Do this another 10 or 20 times and test the command again. A point on mention when training the lure. its recommended to begin your lure training by luring your dog away from you. It's easy to get a dog to come to you. It's harder to get a dog to go away from you. lure away to a touch pad out front of you. The goal of luring should be to create a non-food supporting signal that helps our dog perform a behavior. Gestures are used to help a dog perform a behavior before the handler names the exercise by adding a command. Here is something new trainers should think about. There is a fine but distinct line between a signal and a lure. If a handler wants his dog to go to his rug and points at the rug from behind the dog, that's a signal. If the handler gets one foot front of your dog to encourage him to his bed he is luring the dog to the bed with his body. But if the handler stays one foot behind the dog and encourages the dog to his bed he is offering signals to help him make the decision to go to his bed, a subtle but important distinction. One that requires thought on the part of the trainer. For the majority of 50 year career of owning and training dogs I have been a lumper and I am not proud of it. A lumper is someone who does not split exercise into enough component parts. A trainer can easily become a lumper if they get ahead of themselves and 't properly split exercise. When someone lumps several component parts of exercise together and then tries to train all these parts at one time he is lumping the exercise. When I first started to train dogs to heel I simply put a choke chain on the dog and gave a heel command. If the dog got out front I did about turn and said Heel and corrected the dog back into position. If the dog went wide I said Heel and did a quick turn and corrected the dog into position. I lumped all the component parts of the heeling exercise into one training exercise. The bottom line is the learning phase was not pretty. I feel sorry for old dogs I often wonder how much more they would